Volcanoes, Hot Springs and Gastrointestinal Illness: Part 1

Part 1: Crossing the altiplano of Bolivia from Oruro to Pisiga

Jan 20-23: 240km

Jan 20: 50km, Oruro to Toledo 

We left Oruro on a Wednesday afternoon, and were immediately greeted by the shallow Lake Uru Uru, covered with tons of pink flamingoes! 

We had a very fast, flat ride to the town of Toledo, where we made quite a spectacle cycling around the central plaza. Unfortunately, we had forgotten to take out cash in Oruro and were faced with the prospect of hundreds of kilometers with no atms and only about $20 worth of bolivianos in our pockets...

Biking out of town and looking for a place to camp, we happened to cross paths with an old man on a bicycle. When we asked him if we could camp somewhere, he instead offered us his house! He now lives in town, so we were lucky enough to spend the night in this little empty house in his fields:

Our first use of the new tent was delayed, but we were very cosy and protected from the wind instead! And it turned out he old man had been an amateur bicycle racer in his youth, which was quite a coincidence. Maybe he was more sympathetic for it. 

Jan 21: 67km, Toledo to wild-camp near Corque

In the morning, we decided that one of us should go back to Oruro in one of the mini buses to take out money. So, Adie hopped in a van and had an interesting ride back to the city, chatting with a clothing smuggler, while Lucy hung out with the bikes in the Toledo plaza. She had hardly a minute of silence in the 3 1/2 hours because all the locals were very curious about the bikes, the trip, or just wanted to chat! 

Heading westward again late morning, we saw many bicycle signs, but all of full suspension mountain bikes. We haven't seen any of those around here, nor would they be necessary given that it's all flat. 

Our excitement for chocolate chip cookies turned into disappointment at the dry crackers that came out of the bag....

That afternoon, tired and hot after a long, dirt detour around roadwork, we found chocolate milk! We drank the whole liter in less than five minutes, but had to sit for the next 45 to let our stomach settle. Well, mainly just Lucy, because Adie was in the throws of a gastrointestinal ailment that began in Cochabamba, so he didn't drink very much. Thankfully, the shop owner had brought out two chairs for us to use in the shade in the street. He also offered us camping space in his patio, but later withdrew the offer, claiming a mean dog. So, at 5:30, we set off again in search of a campsite. 

The new tent! It held up pretty well even in the fierce wind with little protection. And it is very spacious inside.

Jan 22: 88km, Corque to wild-camp near Huachacalla

The next day, Friday, brought us our first views of Sajama, the tallest peak in Bolivia at about 6500m. Our route will take us right past it on the way back to Oruro, but for now it was just views from afar. 

We pushed hard to get to a town in time for a late lunch. Adie, with not much appetite, just ordered soup, but Lucy, feeling adventurous and hungry, decided to order the second course (Bolivian lunches consist of a soup, then a plated dish). This was ají de panza: stewed stomach. Unfortunately, Lucy's stomach did not get along very well with this foreign stomach, and her own illness began later that day. So, feeling uncomfortable and exhausted, we picked an early campsite in a dry streambed:

Stopping early was actually quite nice. We had time to relax, do some long-put-off sewing repairs, etc.

Jan 23: 82km, Huachacalla to Colchane, Chile

The following morning, we set out on our first significant climb of the trip, which brought us to 4,000m. 

Adie was feeling a bit better, but Lucy's stomach was deteriorating. Luckily,mother climb was followed by a long descent, which afforded us views of another salt flat, the Salar de Coipasa! 

The descent brought us nearly to Pisiga, the last town on the Bolivian side of the border. 

Lots of trucks pass through here, heading from Iquique to Bolivia!

In Pisiga, we stocked up on five days' worth of food because the route we would be taking through Chile is all nationally protected land so there are basically no towns. 

What five days of food means when you're stocking up on the Bolivian altiplano: 

Breakfast: 

500g oats

small bag of shredded coconut

Milk powder

Maple sugar (sent from NH!)

Snacks/Lunch:

5 cans of mackerel in tomato sauce

36 pieces of bread (flat rolls, bagel size)

6 packets of crackers

4 packets of cookies

1 packaged coconut cake bread 

6 small candy bars

2 containers of jam

Dinner:

600g pasta

300g corn meal

400g lentils

5 onions

5 carrots

1 package tomato sauce

Bouillon cubes and spices

Note: it's forbidden to bring fresh produce into Chile, so the veggies were bought in Colchane, across the border. 

With panniers packed, we headed across the border into Chile! Our first border crossing by bike.